Bolt pattern and offset for Elise wheels

[mason]

I'd like to know what the bolt pattern, center bore, offset, and weight for the Elise wheels.

I will be autocrossing the car and using it for track days so I'd like to find out what my light weight wheel options are.

[WEi]

I'm looking for the same thing too. All the information I have is for the S1 and S2.

I think the main problem is going to be the tires. There are lots of custom wheel manufacturers that can make wheels out there. But to get a custom tire done is next to impossible with my budget! :D :D


http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/wheels/

Standard S1 wheels weigh about 15 lb. The 'Motorsport' lotus wheels are actually a few pounds more! True magnesium wheels like Dymag or Speedline weigh at about 9 lb range. A full set results in a weight saving of about 30 lb saved but at a cost approaching £1600 for a set

[mason]

Lug nut specs

The wheel nuts are standard Rover 19mm nuts with M12 thread at 1.5 pitch. They are spherical seat and not tapered

[mason]

S2 wheel stats:

PCD 4x100
Center bore 56.6

Size FRONT: 16x5.5J (normal) 16x6.5J (LSS)
Offset FRONT: ET31

Size REAR: 17x7.5J (both normal and LSS)
Offset REAR: ET18

[mason]

S2(euro)
offsets
FRONT: ET31
REAR: ET18

[Anticipation]

Mason-
Do you have any pics or description of the standard wheels? I noticed all the LA Auto Show pics you posted had the sport package wheels.
Anticipation

[mason]

I do.

The standard US wheel will be the same as the European 111S.



I've heard no mention of the US Elise coming in smoke or black but that's an option in the UK.


111S Wheel
Front:
111s front--------15.17 lbs (6.88kg)

Rear:
111s rear---------20.94 lbs (9.50kg)

I also have a whole gallery dedicated to Elise wheels and a thread about Elise wheel weight.

[Croft]

Do the OZ Superturismos fit on the Fed ELise without any mods or problems?. I see them on the S2 111S and S2 Sport 190s all the time.

[BigE]

Unless something dramatic changes on the US Elise the OZs should be a direct fit for the Elise. So far all indications are that the wheel specs will remain the same as the UK spec.

One thing, is that the OZ while a nice looking wheel is not all that light.
OZ front----------14.11 lbs (6.4kg)
OZ rear-----------21.6 lbs (9.6kg)

It also seems like the OZ wheels that fit the Elise are only available as an option on the Elise and not readily available for sale in the aftermarket. I’ve looked around and I haven’t seen to many people in the UK offering them for sale.

[jsrsx]

Can anyone gauge from the S2 how much clearance there is from the inner wheel/tire to the suspension components? I'm trying to see if 8" front and 9" rear width wheels would fit and what offsets would be needed. I've been speaking w/ some wheel manufacturers who are looking into Elise-specific fitments. Thanks.

[mason]

There isn’t much extra space. Why do you want to go with wider wheels? I think you’ll be able to get as much tire you need with the 6.5” and 7.5” wheels going wider will only add more weight.

From conversations I’ve had with various S2 Elise owners most don’t think much beyond a 205 will fit on the front (I’ve heard that some 195’s rub) If you could get a 225 on the front I’d guess a 7” (7.5) wheel would be all you’d need.

Not flaming, just wondering

[jsrsx]

Well, to me, wider IS always better for tires (well, up to a point). The more rubber I can keep on the ground, the higher lateral G's I'll be able to hold thru a turn, and the deeper you can brake (assume no brake fade). Even on Hondas I've run, running 7.5"-8" wide wheels w/ 225-235 rubbers helps a LOT vs 6"-7" running 195-205 tires, tho 8" wide wheels don't fit easily on most hondas w/o some major camber, but hey, that's just for a few track sessions. Plus, I just like the look of wider wheels/tires...it gives it that extra girth from the back, and it better fits my image of a true sports car. Most double-wishbone suspensioned cars I'm familiar with (read Hondas and Toyotas, and some Mazdas and Nissans) have a decent amount of inner clearance due to the length of the upper and lower A-arms and the inboardness of the dampers. It's usually the fender clearance that has issues on those. I was hoping this was true for the Elise also.

[mason]

jsrsx,

So what wheel and tire combo are you planning? I've been looking into a few combos and from what I've found selection is very limited. The fronts won't be to bad 30(ish) mm offset is fairly common but the rears are looking difficult.

Looks like three piece wheels could be the best solution for rears ($$$$).

[jsrsx]

A 4x100 PCD can be fairly difficult to find for anything greater than 7.5"W. Definitely, multipiece wheels would be the easiest solution, but the brands offered in the US (Kinesis, Fikse, Forgeline) are quite pricey (and there's HRE and IForged...nice looking wheels, but I prefer the ones that are race-proven. Fikse even denied production of a 4x95.25 PCD wheel due to the lack of strength in certain areas in the wheel...now that tells you they really engineer their wheels). Japanese multi-piece wheels are much lower priced (at the potential higher cost of replacement as outter rim sections are NOT available in the US). For some very nice, fairly light multi-piece wheels that can have virtually any width ordered in 4x100, look into the SSR SP1 Professor and any of the Rays-Volk/Gram Lights GT-series 2-piece wheels. Of course, a forged monobloc will always be lighter than a multi-piece, and there aren't many companies that make forged monoblocs in 4x100 in >7.5"W. Good thing Rays allows you to order any of their wheels in either 4x100, 5x100, or 5x114.3. Rays forged monoblocs are very light and cost considerably less than domestically available 3-piece wheels (but I love Kinesis and Fikse so). The SSR forged monoblocs unfortunately aren't available in 4x100 in >7.5"W. I was personally looking into some of the Rays GT-2piece wheels (Volk GT-U and GramLights 57Pro), the SSR SP1 2piece, and some Rays forged monoblocs (GramLights 57F, Volk SE37K, and Volk TE37). They have quite a wide range of offsets, so there's something that'll work.

Here's some sample offsets available for some of the wheels I mentioned (for the wider applications, I chose an offset that would place the outter wheel edge either in the same position or about 10mm further out, since from what I've seen, there's about 10mm of space to play w/ between the tire and fender):

Volk GT-U 2piece
17x7F +30/+36et | 17x8R +9/+15/+21/+27 available
17x8F +49(near stock fender clearance)/+40or+42(~10mm further out) | 17x9R +34(near stock fender clearance)/+24or+27(~10mm further out)

Volk TE37 1piece
16x7 - available offsets (all positive) 25/33/36/42
16x7.5 - 30/42/46
16x8 - 15/30/38/42/46
17x7.5 - 30/40/48
17x8 - 33/38/42/46
17x8.5 - 30/40/50
17x9 - 0/15/22/28/40

Rays doesn't show all the sizes being available in 4x100, but I've known ppl who have custom ordered it for their cars (e.g. MR-Ss) and I've spoken to Mackin (US Importer) that they can make the appropriate PCDs and offsets. For appearance with decent weight, I really like the Volk GT-U and SSR SP1. For ultralightness, my favorite is the GL 57F and Volk SE37K. I like the SSR GT2s also, but those are available in a max of 17x7.5 in the rear in a 4x100 PCD. Let me know if you want more info on any of these wheels/brands. I can put up a little spreadsheet of what's available, offsets, etc. Keep in mind tho that my "recommended" offsets for the wider wheels assume some available clearance between the inner tire/wheel and damper/coilover assembly. My calculations are basically like this:

17x7.5 +18et OEM
17x9 = 38.1mm wider wheel => 19.05mm additional distance per side at OEM +18et
18+19mm = 37mm-et for OEM fender clearance
18+9mm = 27mm-et for 10mm increase in track (10mm further out)
- Note: a 37mm-et w/ a 9"W wheel would require ~40mm of clearance between inner wheel and damper/coilover.

[KuloiiSport]

just to let some people know, all the specs on the stock wheels including picks are already on this site under FAQ's. looking around first will keep the clutter down.